Bowflex Max Fix
If your Bowflex is not working I might have the answer for you. This applies to the M5, M5u, M6, M7, M7u, M8, M9, Max Total, Max Total 16, SE. If there is no change in resistance this might be it. So lets take a closer look at the part and problem.
This is the Servo Motor that changes the resistance up and down. They go for around 150 if you just replace the unit but lets take a closer look inside.
Nothing seems off here so I removed the gears to inspect.
Well there it is, the gear is stripped. Will this be the problem with your unit? Only one way to find out. So let’s go to the fix.
I found a gear that fit but it was a little thin for my liking so I installed 2 of them to make sure the gears had a large contact area. I selected ones out of brass, mainly in the hopes to prevent it from failing in the same spot again. I have a few of these available on ebay with the upgraded gear. See https://ebay.us/iNXEMf if your interested.
The rest of this article is a group of pictures to help with disassembly and installation along with some tips. Bowflex also has a video on YouTube you can follow or you can view the installation manual here. Below is my personal method. First up is plastic removal. The cover is the natural place to start but beware of the power plug. I ended up installing a quick disconnect after breaking mine. The power cord is not very long so you will need to take care when removing it.
It is also helpful to remove the front cover to gain access to the top 2 servo motor screws. The one screw holds it on, then it lifts up and out.
Image of lower latch of cover to show you need to lift up to remove. I also recommend removing the lower screw in the second picture. I left the top one in.
Now that we have the covers off we can disconnect the spring and remove the cable. I disconnected to release the tension on the cable you need to remove. If your motor works you could set the Bowflex to max resistance to loosen the cable but chances are it doesn’t if your here. I left the cable attached to the swing arm and just removed the screw. I would recommend marking it’s position with a sharpie but it’s not critical as you can reposition the arm if needed. You will need either an 8mm wrench or a pair of pliers to loosen the nut on the cable or you can just remove the top two screws holding the bracket on.
I used a long Philips screwdriver to access the 4 screws holding the servo motor on. I used a magnet on my screwdriver to help it stay with my screwdriver. It worked well, especially for reassembly.
Now the unit should be out and re-assembly is just the opposite. If you removed the bracket with the cable on it you shouldn’t need to make any adjustments. If you removed the cable then you might have too. Here’s a video of how the motor and magnet work to increase the resistance.
8/22/24 – update, I just added the video showing how the motor works with the magnet. If your having trouble with the cable tension here’s how it works.
By default the unit sets to Level 1, this is the lowest resistance level on the screen. At this time the motor is fully tensioned and the magnet is fully disengaged – being pulled away from the wheel. As you increase levels the gear rotates clockwise loosening the cable. Tension is kept on the cable by the spring. The magnet lifts up into the path of the wheel increasing resistance as levels are increased. From Level 1 to level 16 the gear only rotates approximately 70 degrees.
The problem is when the unit is at level 1 or off, it is fully tensioned. The gear is under tension / stress. This was by design and I believe the reason why so many of the gears strip. I don’t think the plastic gear can stand up to the stress being applied and why I upgraded it to brass.
Troubleshooting:
Motor constantly running – Check connections – this usually indicates that one of the resistance wires to the potentiometer is not making a connection, either at the connector or the pot. The requested value is not seen so the motor continually runs.
Resistance levels “go crazy” Example: level 2 then 7 then 3 then 10. They will vary with random levels sometimes working a few levels than “jumping” around. The potentiometer is bad, the carbon traces are dirty or worn. Unit needs replaced.
Clicking noise
If the unit is increasing and decreasing resistances then most likely a cable or wire issue. Inspect wiring and use tie wraps or zip ties to resolve.
The wires on the back of the servo motor of the pot are hitting the magnets on the large wheel in the back of the unit.
Popping noise
A stripped gear inside the servo unit. To troubleshoot unplug the unit to isolate. If the problem persists then it is something else. If the problem is gone likely a motor issue.
I have modified a few units now and plug each one in to test it. The motor does not rotate very far don’t expect a lot of movement. I hope this post has helped you. I would very much like to hear from those of you that replace this servo motor.
I also want to thank everyone that has purchased one of these. I have sold far more than ever expected.
Hey I just got the new servo I bought from you installed, but the wires are rubbing the little rounds as they pass on the disc. Have you experienced this issue? just wondering how I can get the wires out of the way. I guess some hot glue might work. Those 4 bolts that secure the servo motor are the Baine to my existence, but I’m forced to pull it back off to tuck these wires out of the way.
I did use a zip tie to pull the big cable back a little from the disc. I didn’t have any trouble with the other wires but I bet a zip tie would work on them too. I fought with the bolts my first time installing also. It probably would have been easier if I had disassembled further but a long Philips with a magnet worked for me.
Yes, I saw you used a magnet on your screwdriver and that has been helping… I cleared the wires out of the way with some hot glue and of course my luck yielded another issue.
Now my resistance on the machine won’t calibrate to where I am setting it with the disc. I’ve tried adjusting the tensioner several times over and when I attempt to change resistance on the machine it is wonky, I.e. if I started it at max resistance and aligned where the magnets should be on the disk and then attempt to turn the resistance down it goes 20, 1, 18, 20, 19 etc. The same happens vice versa when trying to line up the tensioner at the 0 resistance or 1 to start and then turn it up it will go 1, 20, 18, 19…Any pointers on calibrating?
I had some issues having to adjust the cable but it sounds like your out of position with the “moon” piece. If you set it at resistance 1 with the spring on the bottom disconnected and then manually reconnect it you should be able to see where it is and adjust as necessary. I would move the moon piece first and then adjust the cable.
Another thought would be to make sure with the spring disconnected that the motor increments properly from 1-20.
I’ve identified the issue after I took the servo motor I purchased off. Since the Yellow, blue, and green wires were loose, and I didn’t catch this untill after the part was replaced, the magnets on the spinning disc caught one of the wires and pulled it out of the harness therefore no longer allowing continuity across all of the circuits.
It would be wise to resolve this issue for any further motors sold and/or for buyers to be sure to hot glue them out of the way of those spinning magnets on the disc.
any advice on reconnecting this yellow wire that was pulled out by the bowflex upon testing? I might be able to resolve the issue myself, but don’t have any electrical connection pieces this small.
Yikes – So the wheel in the back caught the wire and ripped it off of the pot on the servo motor. It really should be soldered back on. If you can’t do that just return it. Once USPS receives I can send you a replacement. That stinks. I just went and looked at my unit and was surprised at how close that wheel actually is to the motor. I thought it was further away. These will definitely have to be glued down in the future.
I appreciate, that. I ended up using my glue gun to secure the wire back to the solder point. So far it’s working. I’ll test the machine further working out over the next week or so and see if it holds up. If that doesn’t hold up, I should have a friend or two that solders that can help me with the loose wire.
Awesome – sounds good. I will make a point to glue those wires down in the future.
Can I send in my broken unit for repair?
I don’t have a system setup for that, but that’s a great idea. I would prefer to keep things out of landfills. I need to look into how I could do that on Ebay.